This review dives into the world of high-protein flour for pizza making, comparing the popular King Arthur bread flour with the highly-regarded All-Trumps flour, a favorite among New York City pizzerias. While seemingly minor differences in protein content exist between these flours (12.7% vs. 14.2%), this experiment reveals a significant impact on the final product. We explore the textural nuances and flavor profiles resulting from each flour, utilizing a consistent overnight-fermented dough recipe to ensure fair comparison. The goal is to determine whether All-Trumps flour truly lives up to the hype and if its superior performance justifies the commitment of buying it in bulk.Our side-by-side pizza-making experiment meticulously compares dough rise, texture, crust characteristics (air bubbles, puffiness, rim height), and overall taste. We analyze the differences in both the raw dough and the final baked pizza, offering a detailed visual and sensory assessment. The results provide a compelling case study on the crucial role of protein content in achieving the desired texture and flavor in a pizza crust, ultimately deciding whether All-Trumps flour is worth the investment for the home pizzaiolo seeking that authentic New York-style pie.
Pros And Cons
- Makes a good crust
- Produces a crust with larger gas bubbles and more volume
- Crust feels lighter and puffier
- Crust is less dense and compact than All Trumps flour
- Makes a sweeter tasting crust
- Produces a puffier, lighter, airier crust
- Crust is more chewy and crispy
- Dough is more stretchy and easier to work with
- Only comes in 25lb or 50lb bags
Read more: Caputo Pizzeria 00 Flour Review and Impression
A Floury Experiment: Comparing Bread Flour and All-Purpose
I recently conducted a pizza-making experiment to compare King Arthur bread flour and all-purpose flour. The bread flour (12.7% protein) and all-purpose flour (11.7%) differed by only 1% in protein content. Despite the seemingly minor difference, the results were surprisingly dramatic.
The bread flour yielded a pizza crust with significantly more volume, larger air bubbles, and a lighter texture. In contrast, the all-purpose flour crust was noticeably denser and more compact.
This experiment highlighted the significant impact even a small protein percentage change can have on baking results, especially in terms of crust texture and structure.
Introducing All-Trumps Flour: A New Contender
All-Trumps flour, produced by General Mills, is a popular choice among New York City pizzerias due to its high protein content (14.2%). I've always been curious to try it, but its availability only in large, 25lb or 50lb bags presented a challenge.
Eventually, I bit the bullet and purchased a 50lb bag. My goal was to compare All-Trumps flour to my usual King Arthur bread flour in a side-by-side pizza-making test.
I was eager to see how this high-protein flour would perform and if it lived up to its reputation in the pizza world.
The Dough-Making Process and Initial Observations
Using my standard overnight-fermented dough recipe (65% hydration – recipe in description), I made dough balls with both King Arthur bread flour and All-Trumps flour. The King Arthur dough ball was noticeably taller and puffier.
The All-Trumps dough ball was flatter and more compact, handling similarly to a previous experience with 00 flour. It exhibited a slightly smoother, more stretchy texture.
Interestingly, the King Arthur dough ball had a slightly more noticeable, fragrant aroma compared to the All-Trumps dough ball.
Pizza Baking and Crust Comparison
I baked both pizzas using the same recipe and my new cast iron pizza pan. The All-Trumps pizza crust exhibited exceptionally large and well-distributed air bubbles.
The resulting All-Trumps crust was significantly puffier and lighter than the King Arthur crust, showcasing a noticeably taller rim. The King Arthur crust was still excellent, but the All-Trumps was in a different league.
Both pizzas had perfectly cooked bottoms, but the visual differences in crust texture were undeniable.
Taste Test and Final Verdict
The All-Trumps pizza had a slightly sweeter taste than the King Arthur bread flour pizza. The texture of the All-Trumps crust was chewier, crispier, and more consistent with the 00 flour I used previously.
Overall, the All-Trumps flour produced a more flavorful and texturally interesting crust. I personally preferred the chewiness and subtle sweetness of the All-Trumps pizza crust.
While King Arthur bread flour consistently delivers excellent results, All-Trumps flour offers a unique and superior experience for those seeking a lighter, chewier, and sweeter New York-style pizza crust.